Come and find a diamond in the rough beach you may not normally play at, a gem locals seem to have been polishing for the last few years.
My friends and I decided to take a tour of the Phuket beach scene. We journeyed south early, beating the morning traffic. We reached the southernmost beach, Sangchai first, then drove around to Yanui, before winding around the cape to Nai Harn beach. We didn’t make it far after that.
For locals here, Kata Beach has long been the big-name beach on the south side of the island, but just below it rests the enchanting cove of Nai Harn inviting exploration and adventure.
We looped around Nai Harn Lake, which looked a very popular spot for morning runners. I drove by in my car but, if activity and adventure are your things, I heard there are good hiking trails, cycling routes, and other outdoorsy activities in the area. For all the explorers among you, Promthep Cape, Windmill Viewpoint, and other hills and valleys offer their hilltop trails.
I parked myself down the south side of the beach, got out of my car, and noticed it right away. A crackle of energy. The number of people having fun. This doesn’t seem that different to other beaches I guess, but there was an atmosphere. Maybe it just happened to be a particularly happy Saturday, but it was unmistakable. A beach volleyball court will distract you from your stroll as groups of strangers come together to become teammates or rivals. The repetitive rallies of beach tennis are promptly followed by a shriek of capitulation as a victor is crowned. Kite surfers take control of the elements, carving their own waves. Whilst tucked around a corner and away from the firing line, the Sun loungers are still there. Don’t worry those who opt for the more leisurely beach day out; it is the best of both worlds. The game players have their space to play, and the sun-bathers have beach to bathe on (perfect for those with energetic kids or friends).
If that isn’t enough excitement for you and you’re looking to pack more into your day out, you could try catching the daily sports and recreation classes down on the beach, with the only luxury beach resort on Nai Harn, The Nai Harn’s “Beach Butler” waiting in Rock salt. Classes run from 7-7:45 a.m. and range from: fitness, to wellness activities such as “Beach Boot Camp”, “Muay Thai for Beginners” or, “Sunrise Stretching”. If none of those take your fancy, they are also equipped with snorkels, paddleboards, and kayaks. Whether you’re looking to relax, play games, receive a massage, or even surf, Nai Harn has it.
Nai Harn however, doesn’t quite have the notorious hubbub of other beaches, like Kamala boasting Cafe Del Mar, or Carpe Diem at Surin, yet I was pleasantly surprised. It means a quiet, irreplaceable charm on the pristine beach. However when food and atmosphere, and maybe some wine, eventually become necessities, you have a variety of quality eateries available.
Just off the back of the beach, I spotted Lobster and Sea Breeze near the parking area. Two intriguing offers, with very different menus and prices, and as hard as it was to turn away a 200฿ Pad-Thai and smoothie combination, or any of the other Thai food I saw on customer tables when I peeked in, we decided we wanted a sea view whilst we ate, so strolled down to Rock Salt. I can’t quite call it a beachfront restaurant because it isn’t physically on the beach, however, it couldn’t get any closer. Have a stroll up to their patio, and you will find a totally unfettered view of the Nai Harn coastline.
At Rock Salt we asked for the special, and it felt like we got it. I personally ordered a perfectly spiced green curry ( or Kang Kew-an if you want to be a local), which was preceded by a garlic-y, chili calamari (that at points I wish was a main), all washed down with their signature cocktails. We made sure to try them all, after being informed the drinks menu was designed by the late legendary bartender Salim Khoury from the Savoy in London. Although they specialise in seafood, check out their unique beef listings and other promotions, they seem to have a new one each week.
If you find the food and ambience at Rock Salt to your liking, in The Nai Harn more F&B options offer the same high standard, and the same priceless view. The Nai Harn’s really got the best seat in the house. Perks of being the first 5-star hotel in Phuket 35 years ago I suppose. I managed to go get my own selfie at the only panoramic sea view spot available at Nai Harn Beach and thankfully the very friendly staff could forgive my slight trespassing…
To maximise your time in the area, segregated from the noisy northwest coast by lines of traffic, be sure to see Promthep Cape, which might have the best sunset viewpoint on the island, and is right around the south corner. If you haven’t got your fill of Sea and Sun, Ao Sane beach is a diamond in the rough boasting some of the best beach snorkelling, and diving available to you. You’re not to blame if your sense of adventure gets pulled along for the ride.
I finished my day at the beach in the Reflections bar, on the rooftop of The Nai Harn, exhausted from exertion, with a whiskey in hand, and a sunset that reminds you to enjoy the simple things in life. Tired but triumphant. Sadly, time to go home.
What a day.
By Roger Osbourne
