As a long-time member of the elite international hotel collection Leading Hotels of the World, The Nai Harn on Phuket’s southwest coast has been required to achieve high gourmet standards across its restaurants. We take you on a 24-hour tastebud tour of the hotel with Mark Jones, the executive chef at the Nai Harn
By Peter Powell
To qualify for Leading Hotels of the World membership, and to be included in the 2024 Michelin Guide, your hotel needs to pass stringent quality tests. I caught up with Mark Jones, to find out how he meets the expectations of demanding guests, and walk-in diners, across all outlets and around the clock.
Mark describes his approach to cooking as ‘the best from both worlds’. First off, his search for the very best Thai produced ingredients. However, when certain items are unavailable locally, or when a recipe demands authentic foreign ingredients, Mark doesn’t hold back on sourcing the finest material he can, from anywhere around the world.
MORNING DELIGHTS – Breakfast at The Nai Harn
For most guests, breakfast is experienced in the hotel’s main signature restaurant Cosmo. Located in an elevated position overlooking Nai Harn Beach, every seat in Cosmo comes with a sea view. The choice and quality of food at breakfast, in my opinion, takes some beating. From the ‘cold cuts’ room, where you can choose home smoked fish, to the ‘eggs station’ where all of the eggs benedict variations are available, and cooked in front of you, my advice is to take your time over breakfast here, there is so much to try.
Of course, a room service breakfast, on the intimate private terrace of your bedroom always proves popular. To satisfy this demand Mark has created the new ‘Ocean View Breakfast Board’, which is served on a long lap tray, designed to fit onto the bright green sala lounger.
Also, with intimacy in mind, Mark has opened up the hotel’s specialty grill, Rock Salt, for breakfast. Here, you are literally on the rocks, right over the water, perfect for couples looking for a continental start to the day, with fine blended coffee and homemade pastries.
MIDDAY INDULGENCE – Lunch with a View
Cosmo takes centre stage at lunchtime, with a balanced mix of Western cuisine and Thai classics. I enjoyed a plate of spicy Penang Nua Curry, which is a rich and flavourful Thai-style beef curry that combines tender, slow-cooked beef with a fragrant and creamy coconut-based sauce. It originates from the Malay-influenced Penang region of Thailand, giving it a slightly sweeter and nuttier flavour compared to other Thai curries.
Down at the beachside Rock Salt restaurant, I found a perfect table to enjoy a midday snack whilst watching the world go by with people enjoying themselves on the beach. There is a definite seafood focus at lunchtime with the ‘Catch of the Day’ menu and David Hervé oysters, which are imported from Marennes, in Poitou-Charente. These oysters are delicious because they are bred in a low concentration of specimens per square metre, meaning each oyster has the possibility to grow in its natural environment. Washed down with a glass of the new 2024 Whispering Angel rosé, perfect!
EVENING ELEGANCE – Dining under the Stars
At sunset, as the beach begins to empty, the food service teams concentrate on converting the hotel’s restaurants into dinner mode. Fresh linen cloths are spread over the tables, and sets of highly polished wine glasses are placed in their exact positions.
In the kitchen Mark, and his brigade, prepare the mise en place for the four different restaurant outlets that will be available to diners around the resort.
PRIME is located within Rock Salt, and is a seasonal restaurant celebrating the essence of fire and smoke. If you are craving for a steak this is the place to book, my medium-rare Australian grilled tenderloin was perfectly cooked and melted under the pressure of the sneak knife.
Up on the hotel’s second level, above Cosmo, you’ll find more fire as this terraced area contains sunken-tables, and decorative structures emitting flames, all within a shallow pebbled lake. This area is called Reflections, the ultimate sunset setting with live music, signature cocktails and a relaxed yet inviting ambiance. Also on this level is Hansha, a refined Japanese dining experience featuring the freshest sushi and sashimi.
Of course, Cosmo is still operating in the evening, with a wide range of home cooked meals, which vary in choice depending on the season. I enjoyed a wonderful, meaty fried Sea Bass steak on one of the evenings.
The final dinner experience on offer is a private affair, perfect for an anniversary or special occasion. Every bedroom in the resort has a 14 sqm terrace, which can become a private dining room for two. Mark’s team will set up a BBQ, a candlelit dining table and cocktail bar, overlooking the Andaman Sea and the yachts moored in the bay; a wonderful, and memorable way to celebrate an evening in the tropics.
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